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When you board an airline flight, you might not spend much time thinking about the engines. But they're the only reason that 700,000 pounds of aluminum and passengers can hurtle through the air at 80% the speed of sound. So how do they work? Let's take a look. The BasicsJet engines, which are also called gas turbines, work by sucking air into the front of the engine using a fan. From there, the engine compresses the air, mixes fuel with it, ignites the fuel/air mixture, and shoots it out the back of the engine, creating thrust.
The fan, which almost always is made of titanium blades, sucks in tremendous quantities of air into the engine.The air moves through two parts of the engine. Some of the air is directed into the engine's core, where the combustion will occur. The rest of the air, called 'bypass air', is moved around the outside of the engine core through a duct.
This bypass air creates additional thrust, cools the engine, and makes the engine quieter by blanketing the exhaust air that's exiting the engine. In today's modern turbofans, bypass air produces the majority of an engine's thrust. The compressor, which is called an 'axial flow compressor', uses a series of airfoil shaped spinning blades to speed up and compress the air. It's called axial flow, because the air passes through the engine in a direction parallel to the shaft of the engine (as opposed to centrifugal flow).As the air moves through the compressor, each set of blades is slightly smaller, adding more energy and compression to the air.In between each set of compressor blades are non-moving airfoil shaped blades called 'stators'. These stators (which are also called vanes), increase the pressure of the air by converting the rotational energy into static pressure. The stators also prepare the air for entering the next set of rotating blades.
In other words, they 'straighten' the flow of air. The case contains all the parts of the combustor, and inside it, the diffuser is the first part that does work.The diffuser slows down the air from the compressor, making it easier to ignite. The dome and swirler add turbulence to the air so it can more easily mix with fuel. And the fuel injector, as you probably guessed, sprays fuel into the air, creating a fuel/air mixture that can be ignited.From there, the liner is where the actual combustion happens. The liner has several inlets, allowing air to enter at multiple points in the combustion zone.The last main part is the igniter, which is very similar to the spark plugs in your car or piston-engine airplane. Once the igniter lights the fire, it is self-sustaining, and the igniter is turned off (although it's often used as a back-up in bad weather and icing conditions).
The TurbineOnce the air makes its way through the combustor, it flows through the turbine. The turbine is a series of airfoil shaped blades that are very similar to the blades in the compressor. As the hot, high-speed air flows over the turbine blades, they extract energy from the air, spinning the turbine around in a circle, and turning the engine shaft that it's connected to. This is also the part where Sir Isaac Newton's third law comes into play: for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Put simply, by forcing air out the back of the engine at high speed, the airplane is pushed forward.In some engines, there's a mixer in the exhaust nozzle as well. This simply mixes some of the bypass air flowing around the engine with the hot, combusted air, making the engine quieter.
Putting It All TogetherJet engines produce incredible amounts of thrust by drawing in air, compressing it, igniting it, and exhausting it out the back. And they do it all in a very fuel efficient manor.So the next time you climb aboard an airliner, whether you're the pilot up front or riding in the back, take a second to thank the engineers who made it possible for your jet to streak across the sky at 80% of the speed of sound.
Exhaust pipe sucking up a shirt. This will create a partial vacuum in the cylinder which will still be present when the exhaust valve opens. This will suck air back into the cylinder from the exhaust system. Once the engine fires, of course, the air flow will be in the opposite (normal) direction. Feb 28, 2005 Mmmh, no, I don't rent out my GS on an hourly basis, even though it does when idling on occasion suck air into the exhaust pipe. SYMPTOM: Idle rough. Sometimes bike 'hiccups', CarbMate sync tool indicator goes hard to right side when bike 'hiccups'. Hiccup can casue bike to stall. Bike vibrates a lot at 5K and above INDICATION.
Pool Pump Strainer Lid O-ring; The pump strainer lid is sealed by a single gasket; which once it loses pliability can provide a direct route to foul your prime. Normal signs of wear are cracking in the rubber, warping or stretching, and the obvious, missing bitsCheck the rubber gasket for cracks pinching the gasket into a smaller loop. Cracks will look like striations across the length of the gasket.Warped or stretched gaskets are evident when the o-ring sits in the groove o-ring, spilling over.
The warping of an o-ring can lead to it being pinched creating a gap through which air can enter the plumbing.If necessary, replace with new gasket, after cleaning the o-ring’s groove of gunk and leftover lube. Apply a new coat of lube, as well. Tracy Posted: 7/3/2019 Good morning.Water was exiting through my backwash hose during filtering and there was low pressure. I was told that it was most likely a faulty valve. The valve was roughly 7 years old.
I replaced the valve (from INYOPools) and the same thing is happening. Water also runs out of the backwash hose when turning the handle to a different setting. On recirculate, the pressure is fine and no water exits through the backwash hose. I'm hoping you can tell me what the problem is here because I'm lost.
Courtney Posted: 5/11/2019 Hello, my husband and I just bought a home with a pool. We have never had one before. We did everything as we should to open it except we forgot to take out the second plug in the jets. When we turned on the pump the pressure pushed out one of the plugs and a lot water was coming out of the one jet.We turned off the pumped and took out the rest of the plugs but we now have bubbles coming out of all the jets besides the one that pushed the plug out.The pump also has a lot of bubbles. Did we ruin the pipes or is it unrelated? Not sure if it was from that or if there is just an air leak somewhere.
Hard to tell since we just bought the house. Houston Posted: 5/2/2019 Hi there. I recently replaced my filter grids with a complete grid/manifold kit. I did have to remove the whole filter unit so I could also replaced the filter units stripped drain plug. Everything is working fine. Since doing that, I have what appears to be DE (cloudy water) in the filter basket at the pool pump. I can tell becuase the water in the pump filter basket gets all cloudy when I first turn on the pump.
Also, I can see small traces of DE around my verticle bubblers at the steps too. I cannot see any DE actually blowing out the returns. Could this be a bad spider gasket or something else I could check first?Pentair Intelliflo and Pentrair FNS Plus 60. Kelsey Posted: 4/30/2019 We recently replaced our pool pump and it primes right off the bat but then fills up with air slowly throughout the day while it's running. I've done the soapy water test and didn't see any obvious spots where it was being pulled in and checked the lid and seal there as well. We even had a professional come look at our equipment and he said it all seems to be running fine (he obviously saw it in the beginning of turning everything on while it was still primed) and that as long as water is always running through the system we are okay.
He blew air through our lines and even took the pump apart to check for clogs at the impeller but found nothing. I know the pool is not pulling water in at all efficiently even if it is still pulling it in a little. The water was green (shock fixed that) but is still super cloudy and not filtering out all of the little particles. Am I missing some obvious fix here? I don't want to pay for another company to come look and tell me it's fine again when I know that it isn't actually working properly. Thanks for the help! Kimberly Posted: 4/23/2019 So I actually took my filterCompletely out and cleaned it thoroughly as well as all the sludge at the bottom of the filter (so gross) I put it back in but I’m waiting to run it until my pool is clear of algae and debris.
I’m circulating the water and using my Polaris and skimming the top but it is really cloudy still and I think that was making the filter clogged. Also I think the filter is pretty old (I just bought the house last August and the pool was already open then.) I bought a replacement grid and if the old one gets clogged again I’ll just replace it. Stephen Neal Posted: 3/30/2019 I've tried everything you suggested in all of these excellent troubleshooting steps, including the incense test. I have replaced the plumbing from the pump to the filter and installed a brand new Hayward Super Pump. Air bubbles are still being emitted from the jets. I observed that there is a mixture of air and water rushing into the pump from the suction side if I only open the ball valve that controls the inflow from my vacuum system.
More water flows in if I open the skimmer ball valve and/or the drain ball valve just a little bit Then the water flow seems normal. I pulled the ball valve out of the line that was letting air in I was able to get a snake to pass through from where the ball valve was installed into the pool but encountered no obstruction.
There are air bubbles no matter which ball valve I open independently.